The dashiki is a vibrant, loose-fitting shirt that traces its origins back to the traditional Yoruba male working shirt. Over time, it has evolved from a practical garment into a fashionable item with deep connections to African heritage. The shirt itself has become a symbol of cultural pride, but its history is enriched by the fabrics and designs used to make it.
Picture 1: Dashiki fabric Picture 2: Dashiki imagined in #afriscandistyle Picture 3 & 4: ca. 1860 (made) This Ethiopian kamis (dress) belonged to Queen Terunesh, or Empress Tiruwork Wube, the second wife of Emperor Tewodros II and the mother of Prince Alemayehu. This item is part of the V&A collection
Picture 5: Production of the "Angelina" fabric in a Vlisco factory
The iconic print associated with the dashiki was first created by Vlisco, a Dutch company founded in 1846, renowned for its high-quality wax print fabrics. This particular design was crafted by Toon van de Manakker (1927–2015), a Dutch artist inspired by the tunics worn by Ethiopian noblewomen in the 19th century. Originally, the fabric was named "Angelina," but over time it became widely known as the "dashiki print" due to its association with the shirt. Made using a resist-dye technique and printed on plain cotton, the vibrant colors and bold patterns of the dashiki have become a hallmark of the garment.
Picture 6: Kathleen Cleaver wearing dashiki | Kathleen Cleaver and Black Panthers, Free Huey Rally, Bobby Hutton Memorial Park, Oakland by PIRKLE JONES (1914-2009)
It wasn’t until the 1960s and 1970s that the dashiki took on a more significant role beyond its fashion appeal. During this period, the Civil Rights Movement and the Black Panther Movement gave the dashiki newfound political relevance. African Americans embraced the dashiki as a way to reject Western cultural norms and celebrate their African heritage. Wearing a dashiki became an act of defiance, symbolizing solidarity, resistance, and Black pride. It transitioned from being just a piece of clothing to becoming an emblem of cultural identity and political expression within the African American community.
Today, the dashiki remains a powerful symbol of both style and cultural heritage. Its vibrant patterns and rich history continue to make it an enduring icon in fashion and a testament to the intersection of African and African American cultural narratives.
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